PSA Grading Scale 1-10 Explained
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- Understanding the PSA 10-Point Grading Scale
- The Four Key Grading Factors
- PSA 10 (Gem Mint): The Perfect Card
- PSA 9 (Mint): Near-Perfect with Minor Flaws
- PSA 8 (Near Mint-Mint): Excellent Condition
- PSA 7 (Near Mint): Slight Wear Visible
- PSA 6 (Excellent-Mint): Noticeable Imperfections
- PSA 5 (Excellent): Moderate Wear
- PSA 4 (Very Good-Excellent): Obvious Wear
- PSA 3 (Very Good): Heavy Wear
- PSA 2 (Good): Significant Damage
- PSA 1 (Poor): Severe Damage
- How Grade Affects Card Value
- Common Grading Defects Explained
- Tips for Predicting Your Card’s Grade
- Related Articles
- Frequently Asked Questions
- Conclusion: Understanding Grades to Maximize Value
Understanding the PSA 10-Point Grading Scale
Professional Sports Authenticator (PSA) uses a 10-point grading scale to evaluate sports card condition, with 10 representing perfection and 1 indicating poor condition. Understanding this scale is essential for collectors who want to submit cards for grading, purchase graded cards, or estimate their collection’s value.
Unlike Beckett (BGS), which uses half-point grades, PSA uses whole numbers only. This means a card that falls between two grades will be assigned the lower grade, making PSA grading standards particularly strict. For comparison of grading companies, see our PSA vs BGS vs SGC guide.
Key Takeaways:
- PSA grades on a 1-10 scale with no half-points, evaluating centering, corners, edges, and surface condition.
- PSA 10 (Gem Mint) requires perfect centering (55/45 or better), razor-sharp corners, pristine edges, and flawless surface—only 2-5% of modern cards achieve this grade.
- The value gap between grades is exponential: PSA 10 cards sell for 4-10x more than PSA 9, and PSA 9 sells for 2-3x more than PSA 8.
- Most vintage cards (pre-1980) grade PSA 6-8 due to printing quality and age; PSA 9+ vintage cards are exceptionally rare and valuable.
- Common grading defects include off-centering (60/40 or worse), corner softness, edge chipping, print lines, surface scratches, and whitening on colored borders.
The Four Key Grading Factors
PSA evaluates every card based on four primary factors:
Centering
Centering measures how evenly the image is positioned within the card borders. It’s expressed as a ratio (e.g., 55/45) comparing the larger border to the smaller border:
- Perfect: 50/50
- Excellent: 55/45 or better
- Good: 60/40
- Poor: 70/30 or worse
Centering is measured on both the front (left-to-right and top-to-bottom) and back of the card.
Corners
Corners are inspected under magnification for sharpness and wear:
- Sharp: Crisp, pointed corners with no visible wear
- Slight Rounding: Minor softness visible under magnification
- Moderate Rounding: Visible rounding to the naked eye
- Heavy Rounding: Significant blunting of corners
Edges
Card edges are examined for:
- Chipping: Small pieces missing from the edge
- Fraying: Layered cardboard separating
- Wear: Roughness or discoloration
- Print defects: Factory cutting issues
Surface
Surface inspection includes:
- Scratches: Light to heavy surface damage
- Print lines: Factory printing imperfections
- Staining: Discoloration or marks
- Wax stains: Residue from packaging
- Creases: Bends in the cardboard
PSA 10 (Gem Mint): The Perfect Card
Definition: A PSA 10 card is virtually perfect. Under close inspection and magnification, the card shows no visible flaws.
Requirements
- Centering: 55/45 or better front and back
- Corners: All four corners must be razor sharp with no visible wear
- Edges: Pristine, no chipping or roughness
- Surface: Flawless—no print lines, scratches, or imperfections
- Focus: Sharp, clear image with proper color registration
Modern vs Vintage
- Modern cards (2000+): Approximately 2-5% of submitted cards receive PSA 10
- Vintage cards (pre-1980): PSA 10 is exceptionally rare due to printing standards and age
Value Premium
PSA 10 cards command 4-10x the value of PSA 9 equivalents, making this grade the gold standard for serious collectors and investors.
PSA 9 (Mint): Near-Perfect with Minor Flaws
Definition: A PSA 9 card exhibits only minor flaws visible under close examination. To the naked eye, it appears nearly perfect.
Acceptable Flaws
- Centering: 60/40 or better front, 65/35 or better back
- Corners: One corner may show slight touch wear (minor softness)
- Edges: May have one minor imperfection
- Surface: One minor flaw allowed (very light print line, tiny surface mark)
Market Positioning
PSA 9 is the “sweet spot” for many collectors—excellent condition at a fraction of PSA 10 prices. A PSA 9 typically sells for 2-3x the value of a PSA 8.
Typical Characteristics
Most PSA 9 cards are downgraded from potential PSA 10 due to:
- Centering slightly off (58/42 to 60/40 range)
- One corner with microscopic softness
- Factory print line visible under magnification
PSA 8 (Near Mint-Mint): Excellent Condition
Definition: A PSA 8 card is in excellent condition with minor wear that doesn’t detract significantly from its appearance.
Acceptable Flaws
- Centering: 65/35 or better front, 70/30 or better back
- Corners: Two to three corners may show slight wear
- Edges: Minor edge wear or roughness allowed
- Surface: 1-2 minor surface issues (light print lines, minor wax stain)
Collector Appeal
PSA 8 represents excellent value for collectors who want high-grade cards without premium prices. Many vintage cards in PSA 8 holders are still highly desirable and collectible.
Price Point
PSA 8 cards typically sell for 40-50% of PSA 9 values, making them accessible entry points for expensive rookies and vintage cards.
PSA 7 (Near Mint): Slight Wear Visible
Definition: A PSA 7 card shows slight wear but remains attractive with strong eye appeal.
Acceptable Flaws
- Centering: 70/30 or better front, 75/25 or better back
- Corners: Multiple corners may show light wear
- Edges: Minor chipping or roughness visible
- Surface: Minor surface wear, light scratches, or small print defects
Common in Vintage
PSA 7 is a common grade for vintage cards (1950s-1970s) due to lower printing standards and decades of existence. For these era cards, PSA 7 represents solid condition.
Value Proposition
PSA 7 cards offer the most dramatic price discounts from higher grades—typically 20-30% of PSA 9 values—making them budget-friendly options for completing sets.
PSA 6 (Excellent-Mint): Noticeable Imperfections
Definition: A PSA 6 card has noticeable wear or defects but maintains decent overall appearance.
Typical Characteristics
- Centering: 75/25 or better front, 80/20 or better back
- Corners: Multiple corners show moderate rounding or wear
- Edges: Visible edge wear, minor chipping
- Surface: Noticeable surface wear, light scratches, or print defects
Market Position
PSA 6 cards are suitable for set builders on budgets or collectors seeking placeholder cards for extremely rare or expensive issues.
PSA 5 (Excellent): Moderate Wear
Definition: A PSA 5 card displays moderate wear throughout with obvious defects.
Typical Characteristics
- Centering: 80/20 or better
- Corners: Noticeable corner rounding on all corners
- Edges: Edge chipping or fraying present
- Surface: Multiple surface issues, scratches, or print defects
Use Cases
PSA 5 is often the minimum grade acceptable for completing vintage sets when higher grades are prohibitively expensive. Pre-war cards (pre-1950) in PSA 5 can still command substantial prices.
PSA 4 (Very Good-Excellent): Obvious Wear
Definition: A PSA 4 card shows obvious wear throughout but remains structurally intact without major creases.
Typical Characteristics
- Centering: May be significantly off-center (85/15 or worse)
- Corners: Heavy rounding on all corners
- Edges: Noticeable chipping, fraying, or discoloration
- Surface: Multiple scratches, staining, or print defects
Collector Interest
PSA 4 cards appeal primarily to budget-conscious set builders or collectors of extremely rare vintage cards where higher grades are unattainable.
PSA 3 (Very Good): Heavy Wear
Definition: A PSA 3 card exhibits heavy wear but no major creases or structural damage.
Typical Characteristics
- Centering: Poor centering common
- Corners: Heavily rounded or frayed
- Edges: Significant chipping, fraying, or discoloration
- Surface: Scratches, staining, light creases on borders only
Market
PSA 3 cards are typically only valuable for extremely rare or historically significant cards (T206 Honus Wagner, 1952 Topps Mantle, etc.).
PSA 2 (Good): Significant Damage
Definition: A PSA 2 card has significant damage including possible light creases through the image area.
Typical Characteristics
- Creases: One or two light creases may be present
- Corners: Heavily worn or rounded
- Edges: Heavy chipping, fraying, or separation
- Surface: Substantial wear, staining, or damage
Value
PSA 2 cards have minimal collector value except for the rarest vintage issues.
PSA 1 (Poor): Severe Damage
Definition: A PSA 1 card shows severe damage but remains authentic and recognizable.
Typical Characteristics
- Creases: Multiple creases present
- Corners: Extremely worn, possibly torn
- Edges: Heavy damage, tears, or chunks missing
- Surface: Severe staining, writing, tape residue, or damage
Why Grade a PSA 1?
Cards are graded PSA 1 primarily for authentication purposes—proving the card is genuine despite poor condition. This matters for extremely rare cards like pre-war tobacco cards.
How Grade Affects Card Value
The relationship between grade and value is exponential, not linear. Here’s a typical value breakdown using a hypothetical $1,000 PSA 9 card:
- PSA 10: $4,000-$10,000 (4-10x PSA 9)
- PSA 9: $1,000 (baseline)
- PSA 8: $400-$500 (40-50% of PSA 9)
- PSA 7: $200-$300 (20-30% of PSA 9)
- PSA 6: $100-$150 (10-15% of PSA 9)
- PSA 5 and below: Minimal value relative to higher grades
The PSA 10 Premium
The gap between PSA 9 and PSA 10 is the largest in the grading spectrum. For key rookie cards and vintage cards, PSA 10 examples are exceptionally rare, creating massive price premiums.
Common Grading Defects Explained
Off-Centering
The most common reason cards don’t achieve PSA 9 or 10. Modern printing has improved centering, but vintage cards frequently suffer from this defect.
Corner Wear
Corners are vulnerable to damage during manufacturing, packaging, storage, and handling. Even light corner touches can drop a card from PSA 10 to PSA 9.
Print Lines
Factory printing defects that appear as thin lines across the card surface. Common in certain manufacturers and years (1990s Topps Chrome, for example).
Edge Chipping
Small pieces of the cardboard edge that have chipped away, often from rough cutting during manufacturing or handling.
Surface Scratches
Light scratches on the card surface, often from rubbing against other cards or improper storage.
Whitening
Discoloration on colored borders (especially black borders) showing the white cardboard underneath. Common on cards with dark borders.
Wax Stains
Residue from vintage wax pack wrappers that transferred to the card surface. Common on 1980s and earlier cards.
Tips for Predicting Your Card’s Grade
Before submitting cards for grading, evaluate them yourself to avoid wasting money on cards that won’t achieve desired grades:
Use Proper Lighting
Examine cards under bright, white LED lighting. Natural sunlight works well. Avoid yellow incandescent bulbs.
Check Centering First
Use a ruler or digital centering tool to measure borders. If centering is worse than 60/40, the card cannot achieve PSA 9 or 10.
Inspect Corners with Magnification
Use a jeweler’s loupe (10x magnification) or macro camera to examine corners. Even slight softness visible under magnification can drop a grade.
Examine Surface at Angles
Tilt the card under light at various angles to reveal surface imperfections like print lines, scratches, or indentations.
Check Both Sides
PSA grades both the front and back. A perfect front means nothing if the back has defects.
Compare to Population Reports
Check PSA’s population report for your card to see how others have graded. If only 50 PSA 10s exist out of 5,000 submissions (1% rate), your card needs to be absolutely perfect.
Related Articles
Looking to expand your sports card knowledge? Check out these related guides:
- Grading Sports Trading Cards: Complete Guide - Professional grading essentials and submission strategies
- When to Grade Sports Cards: Submission Guide 2026 - Timing and cost analysis for grading
- PSA vs BGS vs SGC: Grading Company Comparison - Which grader is right for you
- Store and Protect Sports Trading Cards for Longevity - Maintaining condition before grading
- Investing in Sports Cards: Evaluating Value and Potential Return - How grades affect investment returns
Frequently Asked Questions
What percentage of modern cards receive PSA 10?
Approximately 2-5% of modern sports cards (2000-present) submitted to PSA receive Gem Mint 10 grades. This varies by manufacturer, product, and era—chrome cards tend to grade higher than base cards due to superior print quality and protective coating. Topps Chrome and Panini Prizm products typically see 3-6% PSA 10 rates, while vintage cards (pre-1980) rarely exceed 1% due to lower manufacturing standards and decades of handling.
Can the same card grade differently if resubmitted?
Yes, there’s inherent subjectivity in grading. Cards can occasionally grade one point higher or lower on resubmission, though PSA aims for consistency. This is more common on borderline cards (8 vs 9) than extreme grades (1 vs 10). Some collectors “crack and resubmit” PSA 8s hoping for PSA 9 upgrades, though this risks downgrading and additional grading costs. PSA’s minimum grade guarantee prevents downgrades on their review service.
Why do vintage cards rarely achieve PSA 9 or 10?
Pre-1980 printing standards were lower, centering was inconsistent, and cards have existed for decades exposed to handling, humidity, and storage conditions. Most vintage cards show some wear from age, storage, and handling. PSA 9+ vintage cards are exceptionally rare and valuable—a 1952 Topps Mickey Mantle PSA 9 is worth 10x more than PSA 8, and PSA 10 examples command millions. The 40-70 year aging period makes pristine survival extraordinary.
Is PSA 9 good enough for investing?
Yes, PSA 9 offers excellent value for investors. While PSA 10 commands 2-5x premiums, PSA 9 cards are more liquid, easier to sell, and still represent high-grade examples. For vintage cards, PSA 9 is exceptional and highly desirable. Many collectors prefer PSA 9 for affordability while maintaining strong appreciation potential—a smart middle-ground between PSA 8 (more affordable but less premium) and PSA 10 (prohibitively expensive for many cards).
What’s the minimum grade worth submitting for?
Generally, only submit cards you believe will grade PSA 8 or higher. With grading costs at $19-$80+ per card, lower grades rarely justify the expense unless the card is exceptionally rare or valuable (e.g., pre-war tobacco cards). Use the “raw card value vs graded value” test: if a raw card is worth $50 and PSA 7 adds only $20 value, the $25+ grading cost isn’t justified. PSA 8+ typically adds sufficient premiums to cover grading costs.
Do scratches automatically disqualify a card from PSA 10?
Yes, any visible surface scratch will prevent a card from achieving PSA 10. Even minor scratches only visible under magnification will typically result in PSA 9 or lower depending on severity. PSA 10 requires absolutely flawless surfaces with no print defects, scratches, or indentations. Use a jeweler’s loupe or bright lighting to inspect surfaces before submission—surface quality is often the difference between PSA 9 and PSA 10.
How important is centering versus corners?
Both are critical, but centering is objective (measurable with rulers/calipers) while corner assessment has slight subjectivity. A perfectly centered card with one soft corner might grade PSA 9, but a poorly centered card (worse than 60/40) cannot exceed PSA 8 regardless of corner quality. For PSA 10, both must be perfect: 50/50 to 55/45 centering AND four sharp corners. Centering typically prevents more PSA 10 submissions than corner wear, especially for vintage cards with inconsistent cutting.
Conclusion: Understanding Grades to Maximize Value
Mastering the PSA 1-10 grading scale is essential for making informed collecting and investing decisions. Whether you’re submitting cards for grading, purchasing graded cards, or evaluating your collection’s value, understanding what each grade means—and how grading factors affect outcomes—gives you a significant advantage in the hobby.
The exponential value difference between grades emphasizes the importance of proper card handling, storage, and evaluation before submission. A card that grades PSA 8 instead of PSA 9 due to preventable damage could cost you hundreds or thousands of dollars in lost value.
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